To Top It All Off!

To Top It All Off!

Hey there, Pavlo here! Yes, believe it or not I’ve actually written the last two posts about this farmhouse table. It just seemed easier for me to give you the step-by-step “how to” since Steph said she couldn’t remember every little detail and I admittedly work a little bit faster then she’s able to snap photos and ask questions. For some strange reason our kids actually need some attention and that inhibited Steph’s ability to keep up, demanding little ones!

Alright, back to the table, once the frame was built, we took a trip out to Smoot Lumber to pick up 16′, random width 5/4″ pine to build the top.  First, the random width boards were laid together in an arrangement that Steph & her mom liked and then the construction began.  The individual boards needed to be joined together to create the table top and I decided to join them by using biscuits.  I chose to use biscuits because the pieces were so long that cutting multiple slots every 12″ was a lot easier to manage than inserting a spline. I made marks on the pieces of wood every 12 inches and then cut the slots for the biscuits using a biscuit joiner.

Biscuit in marked location on  a plank of the pine table top.
Biscuit in marked location on a plank of the pine table top.
Biscuits from one piece of wood fitted into the biscuit slots on another.
Biscuits from one piece of wood fitted into the biscuit slots on another.

Once the slots were cut, I glued the pieces together with biscuits.

All of the planks of pine (of differing widths) biscuit joined together.
All of the planks of pine (of differing widths) biscuit joined together.

Once all the pieces were glued, large furniture clamps were used to set the pieces tight overnight. After the glue fully cured, the clamps were removed and the table was marked to a 14′ length and cut using a level as a straight edge to guide the saw.

All the planks of wood biscuit joined and then clamped together. This was just the first of several clamps placed running all the way down the table.
All the planks of wood biscuit joined and then clamped together. This was just the first of several clamps placed running all the way down the table.
The table ends were marked and then cut so they were even and so that the table was made to it's desired length.
The table ends were marked and then cut so they were even and so that the table was made to it’s desired length.

With the ends cut, two pieces of wood were cut to length to create a breadboard end.

Piece for bread board marked and cut.
Piece for bread board marked and cut.

The breadboard end was checked for fit and then marked for biscuits, slotted, and then glued and clamped.

Checking cut bread board for fit.
Checking cut bread board for fit.
Bread board end attached with biscuits and then clamped.
Breadboard end attached with biscuits and then clamped.
Completed bread board end. Building your own farmhouse table.
Completed breadboard end.

Once again, I waited for the glue to cure and then removed the clamps.  After removal, I then hand planed the entire table to create a smooth table top.  The hand planing was then followed by a light sand with 80 grit and 120 grit sand paper in preparation of stain.

hand planing table
All hand planed.
Planing complete!
Planing complete!

When staining soft woods, wood conditioner needs to be applied prior to stain to ensure stain is taken in evenly by the wood.  I applied the conditioner and wiped off any excess that was not absorbed and waited 30 minutes to start staining.

wood conditioner

We wanted to create any antique looking finish so a multiple layered finish was to be applied, starting with an early american stain.
early american stain

Table stained!
Table stained!

This was followed a few hours later by a layer of amber shellac.

shellac applied1

After applying shellac.
After applying shellac.

Once the shellac dried, steel wool was used to knock down any high spots and brush marks.  Typically any top coat such as a polyurethane, or shellac in this case, needs a few coats to completely cover the wood.  In this particular situation, since we wanted to create an antiqued look, we followed up the shellac with a classic danish oil to cover any final voids in the finish coat.

danish oil

After danish oil was applied.
After danish oil was applied.

Once the danish oil was applied, we waited a day for it to dry and then sanded the entire surface with fine steel wool to create a nice smooth finish.
steel wool

Lightly sanded using steel wool.
Lightly sanded using steel wool.

The table frame was now ready for final paint.

Another of it after the danish oil.
Another of it after the danish oil.

Final paint of the frame was “Slate” blue milk paint that, once dried, had a white glaze applied over it. The chairs were all antique store finds (with the exception of the head chairs that actually came from our first house) which Steph’s mom spray painted a gray that coordinated with the table frame. Now that I’ve gotten in touch with my feminine side discussing coordinating colors, I think I’ll leave you with some photos of the completed table.

"Slate" milk paint with a white glaze on the frame. Gray spray paint for the chairs.
“Slate” milk paint with a white glaze on the frame. Gray spray paint for the chairs.
All different antique chairs painted in the same gray color.
All different antique chairs painted in the same gray color.
Completed table.
Completed table.

Completed table



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